Afternoon Delight.

I got a package! To get a package under ordinary circumstances is a pleasant event but when you are living overseas it is a delight.
And, this little parcel contained things that I longed for for months.

Lean closer, I’ll tell you a secret: every few years I embark on a search of a new perfume. The notion of a signature scent is lost on me, and though I have a few beloved fragrances to which I return over and over again, I am compelled to try something new now and again. My surroundings change every two to three years, why should my perfume stay the same?

My second guilty secret is that I adore reading blogs of perfumephiles. People who are trying to capture in words something as elusive as scent intrigue me. Largely due to these blogs I became interested in Frederic Malle’s perfumes only to discover that not every city carries his line. Hot and dusty Phoenix didn’t have it, the same – with smart and proper Washington DC. New York was the closest, but visit there didn’t fit into my summer schedule. (I can imagine the conversation with my husband: you want to go to NY just to try how it smells?????)

In Baku I found their site, Editions De Parfums, filled out a questionnaire and based on my answers received some suggestions on what I would possibly like. I went ahead and ordered three samples.

I ordered them and ...crossed my fingers because, as I mentioned before our local address here is an enigma, and the US address that we are allowed to use frowns upon sending liquids in glass containers (I wasn’t sure if samples come in glass or plastic mini bottles).

But, my parcel came through and not only it came through but arrived with a handwritten note thanking me for my interests in their products.

I was immediately swooning over Iris Poudre. It reminded me of my beloved Chanel No. 19 but with more warmth. With tonka bean, musk, vanilla and sandalwood it is all about softness and coziness.

Une Fleur De Cassie haven’t spoken to me yet, so I’ll withhold my judgments for now.

But, L’eau D’Hiver! - L’eau D’Hiver took me by surprise. There is something extraordinary strange in it – gentleness combined with hardness. Many reviews suggest that it suppose to bring to mind coolness of winter days, it does very different thing to me – it makes me think of rice fields filled with water, bamboos – it represents orient to me.

Now I am torn between Iris Poudre and L’eau D’Hiver . One comforts me; the other makes me feel alert. Hard to choose. Considering the price and that I try to be a sensible person I have to choose. Really. But the since the closest places that sell Frederic Malle’s perfumes are Paris or Moscow, I have time.

Scents

Working on my latest article got me thinking about perfume and scents. I like all the smelly things – even while washing hands I prefer “Grapefruit and Bergamot” to any other no smelling substances. Scents are such powerful tools – in seconds they can transport you back in time, generate interest in other person or create an intense feeling of dislike.

Aroma of freshly grounded coffee reminds me of home – that was/is my mom’s way of starting the day; cinnamon associated with my grandmother and holidays because she often used it in baking. I loved the smell of Moscow metro and specific smell of dusty streets after the rain; the aromas of burning candles always manage to calm me down.

Early on I figured out that scents can create a certain mood – for example, rose oil helped me to concentrate. Dubbed on the wrists, it carried me through numerous nights of late studying. Interestingly, I never used it under other circumstances.

My very first perfume was Diorissimo by Christian Dior. It was a present for my 16th birthday. I cannot even say if I liked it or not, but since I didn’t have anything else, I used it, of course.

In college I found “Nefertiti.” It was quite a strong scent for a young person but it made me feel confident, more experience than I was in reality. Then, again as a present, I got Anue, French perfume. It was love from first sniff. It had undeniably masculine quality, nothing floral or fruity about it, but ,gosh, it was wonderful. The testament of its superior quality was that my boyfriend of that time couldn’t resist using it now and then, and this man had an extremely good taste. Unfortunately, I never was able to find this perfume again.

I had a major fiasco with fragrance in the States. Marylin Monroe and her famous love for Chanel # 5 convinced me to put it on my wish list. I got it for Christmas – open it, expecting some magic, and...hated it. It smelled like my grandmother’s perfume to me. Nice as a memory but totally unwearable; had to give it to a friend.

In 2001 in DC I discovered Adrienne Vittadini by Adrienne Vittadini. It was the first and last time so far when I met a sales person who not only loved but knew about perfumes. She listened to my feeble attempts to describe what I am looking for – not overly sweet, a bit spicy, not transparent but also not in your face - and showed me several bottles. Adrienne Vittadini captured me – it felt refreshing but spicy at the same time, very different from anything I smelled before; it also blurred the border of masculine/feminine divisions of perfume, which I always like.

Lanvin Eclat D'Arpege was discovered in Zagreb in 2003 and still is one of my favourite spring scents. I find myself returning to it every spring for about four years. It is fruity, but sophisticated, very feminine and bright. For me it is joy captured in the bottle.

Summer of 2004 went under the sign of Calvin Klein “Be”. It felt so subtle, so clean, so easy to wear – perfect travel companion. Now though I find it lacking in character.

Channel # 19, discovered in Beijing, became my one and only choice for more than a year. Its understated elegance stopped me from experimenting with other perfumes. It is so harmonious, there is nothing to add or subtract – it fitted all moods perfectly. For a while I thought I found my signature scent.

But then we came to Iceland - long winter, dark days and lousy weather shattered my confidence and enforced my need for comfort. I craved for something that can wrap me into its layers and carry me through the day – “Cashmere Mist” by Donna Karan had this ability.

Spring brought the desire for new discoveries and as a result – L’Air du Desert Marocain by Andy Tauer found its way to my heart. It is slightly dry, spicy and has a certain bite into it.

My four favourites at the moment are:

• L’Air du Desert Marocain by Andy Tauer
• Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan
• Eclat D'Arpege by Lanvin
• Chanel # 19